This morning we caught a local bus and I had a pushing competition with one old Uighur
who apparently just returned from Mecca and wanted both seats for himself. It went on for
a few minutes, and then he gave in and we spent the rest of the ride in peace.
Here in Kashgar, I have run into lots of people I have met along the way: Kal (UK),
Duncan (NZ), the Kiwis. I also heard from several people that I have lots of mail waiting
for me at the GPO. Hurray! I'll pick it up tomorrow.
I have been searching for a plan of action to ring a bell in me, but nothing is very
inspiring. Roland is apparently still here so joining up with him is still a possibility
and cycle back to Hong Kong.
Yesterday Will and I discussed money making options for travelling; buying things in
Asia and reselling them in the US and Europe. We would try to take a $1000 investment and
make $3500 to $5000 back. The problem with this idea is I don't think I have the right
temperament to follow through. Will thinks I ought to follow "The Grateful Dead"
concerts around, selling scarves, jewelry, pipes and embroidered vests. I feel more
comfortable going on bike rides.
"Peculiar
travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God."
Kurt Vonnegut |
My immediate concern is tires, though it is probably not insurmountable. If the Chinese
tricycle tires fit on the rim I think I can make them fit on the bike.
I just picked up my mail: a whopping 27 letters! Holy Cow! Colette had a class of fifth
grades write to me as a class project. It was great fun to read them and quite inspiring
as well.
I went back to the Seman Hotel to see if I could get a 6Y bed in the dormitory. It was
still full. I took a look at it and they are packed in there like sardines. However, it
looks like a great place to stay, as it used to be a foreign consulate compound, with
courtyards and fountains (not operating), but still a nice atmosphere.
Sitting at the restaurant, I saw the old Pakistan crowd: Pierre, Jon and Ducan. After a
while Roland showed up. We talked for a while discussing plans and options. Roland said he
wants to take a bus and train to Lanzhou and start cycling there. He wants to meet a
friend in Hong Kong at some point, so that will pin down his finish time. Roland has an
easy going, relaxed style. I think we could work well together. It is not so critical to
get the bike parts here as there wouldn't be much cycling until Lanzhou, where I think I
could get new tires, a spare freewheel and maybe even a new pump.
Seeing and talking to Roland has renewed my enthusiasm for cycling in China again. Just
riding around here, I was reminded how much I enjoy watching the Chinese.
"Travel
magnifies and intensifies life."
Eric Hansen, The Traveller |
Four Pakistanis moved in to the 20-bed dormitory and instantly the noise level tripled.
I dont care for their aggressive, obnoxious style.
I went wandering around Kashgar on the bike. I really didn't accomplish much of what I
set out to do, except get some sulfur creme for my feet. Will said he had the same problem
for three years and finally discovered it was a fungus that was causing the problem. It
seems unlikely, but I'll give it a try.
Ah, the pleasure of getting decent food again. There are some benefits to the long-term
traveler of having well-establish tourism in some places. I wouldn't want to find all of
China converted, but after six weeks in the culinary hell of Pakistan, I am very happy to
see some Western food again.
I went to the Kashgar Sunday market. It was interesting. There were plenty of hats and
people to watch.
On the fourth day I finally get into the Seman "Slum" Hotel, as an Israeli
called it.
"Get your
priorities straight. No one ever said on his deathbed, "Gee, if I only spent more
time at the office"."
Lifes Little Instruction Book |
After a shower and the beginnings of breakfast, I'm feeling pretty good. Today is like
the dawn of a new trip. I'm feeling really good. I am writing letters and enjoying it. I
am sitting around in my dorm room going through pictures, organizing my stamps and record
book, talking to people. I will continue with the plan to go to Hong Kong with Roland.
Getting to Europe this late in the year just doesn't feel right.
It was another good day, just writing letters, eating and talking. I spent the evening
with two guys on their way to Pakistan to do some trekking in the mountains. I also met
Deb, an American woman going on her second year as an English teacher in China. I met a
number of such people. Obviously, China holds a special attraction.
I have been thinking about Suzanne lately. She must be close by. It is too bad we
weren't able to work it out, at least to Kashgar. I wonder how she will do in Africa.
Question
authority."
Behrams Words of Wisdom |
I went to the post office to mail a few letters and questioned the charge by the postal
worker that all my letters were over 10 grams. He took offense and began a string of abuse
by first saying that if I don't believe him, then I shouldn't come to the Post Office.
Then he said I shouldn't make demands. However, if I was a woman, it would be okay, but
its not because I am a man. Finally he asked where I was from. I told him and it said,
"It figures". It seemed like he was just taking his frustrations out on me. I
just hope he doesn't interfere with my letters, both coming and going. It has been three
days since I got any new mail. I feel sure that Elizabeth's letter must be in the next
batch.
"Oh my
husband is the one who reads the mail at the Post Office."
Heard second hand for a traveler who met a Chinese woman from Lhasa |
A few days ago I was cycling down one of the main road with not a vehicle in sight.
Suddenly, I spotted a cyclist coming the other way headed right for me. I swerved
to avoid hitting him and as I passed him, he swung his arm around and smacked hard me on
the back. I was taken aback and turned around to look at him. He stood there yelling at
me. Then it clicked; he was a traffic policeman enforcing the bike path law with the slap
of the hand.
Road to Urumqi
Today began with disturbed sleep. The Pakistanis staying in the dorm were snoring big
time. We got up about 3 AM real time, 5 AM Xinjiang time, and 7 AM Beijing time. The
Chinese, in their desire to have one unified country, have dictated that the entire
country has the same time. So even though in reality the country spans four or five time
zones, the Beijing time rules the government offices and transportation timetables. So
while a 7 AM departure my sound reasonable in Beijing, the reality is that here it is in
the dead of the night. The people in Kashgar have compensated but adjusting their watches
two hours later, but this results in more confusion, because one never knows what time it
really is.
We got to the bus station and waited around for about an hour and a half or two before
we got rolling. The Chinese have a policy that all bikes are charged a freight fee as if
they were the standard farmer special, a 50 kg (110 lb.) rig made with extra heavy duty
gas pipe steel rods and a rack capable of carrying anything from the standard 50 kg of
rice to a complete bed or sofa (no joke, I saw with my own eyes). It didn't matter that
our bikes weigh one third of the Chinese bike: a bike is a bike. Thank you China. The bike
cost almost as much as the seat.
Day 1 on the bus to Urumqi (The background noise is like being in India again,
loud TVs, horns blasting, dogs barking, etc.)
We decided to take the "standard" bus because the deluxe models have very
little room for luggage. We were jammed up near the front with no foot or legroom. They
put family in front of us and they always bring a ton of stuff on the bus so there isn't
any room to move. This is a three-day bus ride. We have two overnight stops and 12-hours
of riding during the day along the way. I can tell it is going to be a very long journey.
On the way I set my bag down in the aisle and I discovered that somebody opened the top
when I wasn't looking. Damn. I hope the bikes and gear is okay on top of the bus tonight.
We aren't permitted to take it down until we get to Urumqi.
"Few things
are fatal."
A reminder from the US Consulate "Travel Hints" when the frustrations seem
overwhelming |
I hate taking the bus! But I think taking on this stretch of road by bike would be
insanity. However, we saw a cyclist westbound going toward Kashgar today, plus Jan and
John did it as well as a number of others. Not for me though. Ill take the mountains
any day over the desert. Nevertheless, the landscape, however uniform, was indeed
remarkable. Rainbow colored Grand Canyon-style terrain on the north, and an unending
expanse of plains on the south, with the road stuck right in the middle. There is a green
band of irrigated land at the edge of the plains, and everything else is a sandy brown
color; the buildings, the road, the people, the animals, everything.
At one point we saw what appeared to be a line of snow or clouds striping the mountains
off in the distance. I turned out to be the sharp contrast between the areas in cloud's
shadow and those areas in direct sunlight.
Back tracking to yesterday. I had a bad time with the man in charge of the poste
restante in Kashgar. He wields complete control of the international mail and I have a
very bad feeling about him intercepting mail, holding it, opening it, etc. I have no
proof, only feelings.
I tried to mail my old letters home and the hats I found in the dormitory. Everything
went okay until I paid him. He didn't want to put the stamps on while I was there, saying
that all he had was low value stamps, 0.8Y and 1Y. Yet he sold a 2Y stamp to someone while
I was there. He said I could come back on Monday and see the stamps put on the package,
and what's the matter, anyway, don't I trust him? I wanted to cancel the whole matter, but
I felt it might jeopardize me getting any further correspondence or the rest of my mail
out of China.
I felt my chances were reduced after I met a Brit in the post office and he talked to
me at length about his intrigue with the PSB. He said they have intercepted his telegrams
from home and he threatened to notify the British Consultant. He said that they should
produce something in the next few days, as they would hate for the higher powers to get
involved. He also told me he has some interviews set up with the BBC and that he was going
spying again. What a crazy guy. I hope he knows what he is doing.
Bus to Urumqi - Day Two. After yesterday's events, today was a piece of cake. In some
ways I think it is a good idea to start in the middle of the night because I am so tried
that I have no choice but to sleep part of the way, lessening the time I feel discomfort
by the amount I slept. I think I was totally rebelling the first day on the bus, and
submitting to it today. The landscape was an exact repeat of yesterday. It was as if we
didn't make any progress at all. I am glad I am not cycling this. However, I am looking
forward to getting on the bike again, soon.
We are stopped in the middle of nowhere due to some mechanical problems. Early morning
on the bus, the twilight yields an expansive sky, filled with stars. Dawn appears slowly.
On to Urumqi
Skip to:
Travelogue Index | Introduction |
On the Road Again |
Pakistan |
Roasting in Islamabad |
Monsoon Washout |
Breakup in Gilgit |
Khunjerab Pass |
Kashgar |
Urumqi |
Lanzhou in September |
Labrang Monastery |
Zoige, Sichuan |
Farmhouse Family |
True Love in Chengdu
Bike China Adventures