China Cycling Travelogues

Suzanne arrived yesterday! I was forewarned that she was here because at the GPO the letter I wrote her had been picked up and her signature was on the receipt form. I got very excited and went back to the camp, but she wasn't there yet. So I went out and did some more things, like getting more passport photos and registering with Immigration. Then I went swimming at Rawal Lake. When I got back she was there writing letters. I knew it was she, but she looked only vaguely familiar. She commented that I had lost weight and I told her she would too as soon as she got sick. She said she had put on a lot of weight. It must be why I barely recognized her.

We are sweating out the days. On Sunday, she gets her visa for China. She is really feeling the heat and is constantly squinting from the bright light. It must be brighter than the US.

We had plenty of frustration with the bureaucrats today. We got to one office and then were sent to another and another and another. "Go here, come back later, now go back to an office I was at two days before. I think Pakistan has out done even the Indians in the bureaucratic bullshit.

Rawal Lake - Swimming in Pakistan, trying to beat the heat and get a break from the Pakistanis, but that is not possible here. Suzanne was excited to go skinny-dipping in the lake in spite of the fact there were some men around. There was some privacy, but she didn't try too hard to hide. Maybe she figures with me around it doesn't matter if they look. It is hard for me to feel very protective, though I feel like I should be. She has been walking around the market in tank tops and shorts, but has decided that she will dress a little more modestly after noticing the reactions she is getting from the men. Today she bought some baggy white pants and seems pretty happy with them.

She has been walking around braless and in a tanktop. This is totally inappropriate dress for this Muslim country where some women still wear the full purdah (a head to toe covering of their entire body). Even I feel too shy to walk around in shorts. From the looks of the stares she attracts from the Pakistani men it is as if she is walking naked. Yet she seems oblivious to it all. However, when she went out last night, she started talking to a Pakistani guy and as another walked by he pinched her bottom. She jumped and told the one she was talking the other touched her. He then asked, "Can I touch you too?"

We are staying in a Pakistani resort town where the price of hotels is about double or triple the usual price. There are many Pakistani tourists, but we haven't seen any other Westerners. We walked around the town. In a market a bit like a mall some guy jumped in front of Suzanne and took her picture. She seems unaware of it, but it really annoys me. If she really were my wife I would have tried to ruin the film.

Finding a hotel room was time consuming and a little frustrating, as everybody wanted us to pay 300 to 500Rs for a room. I looked at quite a number and found an acceptable one after about an hour. I tried to take Jean-Louis attitude of trying to look fresh and not worn out when asking about accommodations. I think the owners may offer a lower priced room if they think they may lose the customer.

I am feeling quite protective of Suzanne and I have been watching the Pakistani mens' reactions, usually staring to the point of gawking, with lots of catcalls from passing vehicles. One guy in a barbershop made a loud hissing sound just before I came into view and when he saw me he laughed. I can tell it is going to be an interesting ride.

It has been fascinating to see the Pakistani womens' reactions to Suzanne. They have been very curious, whispering among themselves and often giggling. One woman from a parked car asked her where she was from and welcomed her.

When we got into town we went directly to the Tourist Information office. I have had good experiences with these guys so far. The man today was very pleasant and when we asked about camping, he offered to let us stay in the yard beside the Tourist Office. He also said the monsoon might begin at any time now, possibly even today.

On the way, we passed an active rock fall area where five pound rock came flying down the hill beside us whipping by our heads. It was a frightening experience, and I wonder about the prudence of not wearing my helmet.

Last night we met a guy who said he was the Deputy Prime Minister of Pakistan. He and his family were staying in the government rest house. He invited us for a chat, but he had very little to say. I tried to prod him a bit but there was no development. I told Suzanne that it seems like the more important a person is the less he has to say.

I have been surprised at how articulate some of the shop owners have been that we have met, last night and again today. Suzanne doesn't seem very interested in trying to talk with these people other than to ask a few questions. They are clearly interested in her, but she generally just brushes them off. Maybe I am too sensitive to the reactions of others. I know I am very aware of the body language they are presenting to us. There was a dramatic change in the men's reactions to Suzanne as we descended to Abbotabad. They became more aggressive verbally, cat calling, whistling and gawking. I much prefer the mountain people. They are much more cool and reserved. In a few days we should be back there with them.

Most of the time, I am the spokesman, answering questions, getting directions, ordering food and getting lodging. And I guess that is how it should be under the circumstances.

We talked a bit about our pasts and our friends and ex-spouses. It seems odd to be suddenly with someone again. Maybe I should ask her what she expects. From my perspective, it seems odd, but I have no desire to be intimate with her. She seems so alien, even though we speak the same language and are from the same country. It is as if Asia has transformed me into a different person. I thought that once I was with a woman, all my troubles would be over. But, for some reason, the chemistry is not right.

Suzanne has decided to ride in shorts. I think it is disrespectful to ride like that in a Muslim country, and especially for a woman. I don't know how to convince her though. The reactions from the locals are generally drop-jaw shock. We have had a few "seagulls", but it has been much less than I had to deal with in India. I guess because there are fewer people on bicycles here. It seems odd, but the Pakistanis seem more interested in us than the bikes, whereas in India it was the other way around. But then there is the "Suzanne factor" which over-powers any other. Being a blonde American female riding in shorts and a tank top in a Muslim country is like dropping a magnet into a pile of iron filings. She is simply irresistible to them.

It is also disconcerting to me at Suzanne's flippant disregard for the locals and unwillingness to try and communicate with them. Maybe I am too sensitive, since I have been in Asia over a year now, while she has just arrived.

She has turned me on to the idea of taking a different perspective on eating. There is lots of wonderful food here and since she brought a stove and cooking pans, it is possible to prepare our own food. So, we are going to give it a shot tonight. It will be slightly more expensive, but I think it will be worth it. It amazes me how bad the food is in the local restaurants. Everything is at least one-quarter grease and the vegetables have been in the pot boiling away since dawn, resulting in a tasteless unrecognizable mush.

Suzanne also had a good idea for lunch; making a vegetable and fruit burrito. Today I bought eight plums, two mangos, a lemon, five tomatoes, an onion and a cucumber all for eight rupees. I also bought three nan (flat bread that looks like a large pita pocket) and a bowl of curd (yogurt). I cut up all the fruit and veggies and dabbed a bit of curd on it, rolled it up and I was in culinary heaven. The locals stood around in disbelief as I prepared my lunch. It was the best thing I've had since my yogurt/fruit/cornflakes and honey mixture back in Islamabad.